Clogs in Britain and Beyond – summary

Michael Jackson’s talk provided a comprehensive exploration of the origins, myths, and evolution of clogs in Britain and around the world. Speaking from Adlington, Lancashire, Jackson began by addressing popular myths about the origins of clogs, particularly the oft-repeated but debunked story that Flemish weavers introduced clogs to Lancashire in the 14th century. He traced this misconception back to a plaque in Bolton and its perpetuation in historical accounts, which have since been invalidated by scholars like A.P. Wadsworth in the 20th century. Instead, Jackson argued that English clogs evolved locally from earlier wooden footwear known as pattens, which predate the arrival of Flemish weavers.

He explained that pattens, wooden soles strapped beneath delicate shoes, protected wearers from mud and water, eventually leading to the development of raised footwear such as ring pattens. By the 17th and 18th centuries, these evolved into clogs with leather uppers with wooden soles fitted with clog irons, which became widely associated with industrial and working-class use in the 19th century. Jackson noted the enduring adaptability of clog makers, many of whom transitioned from crafting pattens to clogs as demand shifted.

The talk delved into the craftsmanship of clogs and their European counterparts, such as the French sabots and Dutch klompen. Jackson highlighted the intricate processes and tools involved in making solid wooden shoes, contrasting these with English clogs that incorporated leather uppers for comfort and practicality. He also showcased historical photographs of clog makers and tools, as well as examples of mechanised production methods like Dutch copying lathes.

Jackson discussed the global spread and variation of wooden footwear, including examples from Spain, Turkey, Japan, and Korea, underscoring how similar solutions arose independently in different regions to address shared challenges like wet or rough terrain. He dismissed the idea of direct influence between these cultures, suggesting that practical needs and available materials led to analogous designs.

In Britain, clogs became synonymous with industrial work and, later, with clog dancing. Jackson traced their decline as everyday footwear, attributing this to the stigma of poverty and the rise of disposable shoes. However, he noted their continued use in specific contexts, such as Morris dancing, where dancers adapt them for comfort with innovations like anti-shock insoles.

The talk concluded with a Q&A session, addressing topics like the use of clogs in industries such as glassmaking and fish markets, regional styles, and materials like alder, beech, and sycamore used for soles. Jackson also discussed modern adaptations, including segs for dance shoes and the resurgence of clogs in niche contexts.

Ultimately, Jackson’s presentation emphasised the rich and complex history of clogs, celebrating their evolution as both practical footwear and cultural artefacts. He debunked myths, illuminated regional and global variations, and underscored the creativity of craftspeople who adapted clogs to meet the needs of their time.